Ladakh, Cold and Rugged

It happened again. Every time I set out for a long trip, something unexpected would happen that caused inconvenience, anxiety, delay, amusement, etc, and this year was no different. I go one better this year, because our little ‘snafu’ caused monetary loss and possibly missing Day 1 of the ride. To recap, in 2022 my phone flew off its cradle which was clamped to the handle bar even before I arrive at Tuas ICQ. 2023 saw me being held up at the same Tuas ICQ but that time, causing alarm and triggering an emergency response which brought out a section of policemen armed with assault weapons ready to apprehend me. This year, together with Linus, we managed to missed the connecting flight from Delhi to Leh. And we had to purchased new tickets for the following morning’s red-eye flight and check into the Centaur Hotel near the airport. And we narrowly missed getting bumped off again due to a ‘power bank’ that was in my check-in baggage. Although we made it to Leh, it was a pretty fine line.

So okay. Linus and I have accepted William’s invites to his ‘Ride of Your Life-Himalayas Adventure’. I didn’t expect Linus to show any interest but to my surprise, he asked if he could join the ride. Of course, William was happy to have him, and for me, doubly so. I have never toured with Linus on motorcycles before but together with Lavina my eldest, we went diving at Moal Boal, off the island of Cebu some years back.

I did the packing for us both, being more experience in packing for longer motorcycle trips. This time, I made sure that we have enough warm clothing and not forget the THERMALS like I did in ’17 when I rode to Tibet which has similar weather conditions.

There were thirteen of us on rental Royal Enfield’s Himalayan 411cc. The guide, Mr. Vikram makes us fourteen. Two spouses were also in the pack, riding pillion occasionally when the terrain permits. I would surmise that riding pillion is less stressful then as a pax in a 4-wheel vehicle. With the terrain as rough as it is, the pax get tossed around the cabin, their heads swinging erratically, like an upside-down pendulum, as the driver weaved through the potholes and ruts. It’s hard to keep the four wheels on an even keel as the terrain switched from bad roads to even worse ones all day long. Terrain here also means roads which once have asphalt. It is common to have long stretches of sand, loose stones and gravel, with a little respite sometimes, where some parts of the mountains are being carved and steam-roll to make new paths or roads that have newly-filled potholes.

The region we were in, Ladakh, is situated on the south facing side of the Himalayas. Elevation above MSL range from 2750m at Kargil to 7672m in the Karakoram. It shares borders with China to the North and East, and Pakistan to the West. This is but a very brief and general description. I hope that I am not too wrong. Around the Drass Mountain Range after Kargil, we were able to see Pakistani bunkers through binoculars from a POI on a mountain on the India side. A majority of the Kargil population are Muslims. Not surprising given its close proximity to Pakistan. In 1999, India & Pakistan were at war in this region. There is a tiny monastery located close to a huge mosque, near to Hotel Caravan Sarai where we stayed. It is so tiny that we have to stoop to get in through its worn doorway and its interior is less than 5 sq. m. The small structure was put together using very basic materials. Linus & I made a small contribution.

Excluding Vikram the guide/boss, we are a group of fifteen people from different walks of life. This number include 2 spouses who occasionally rode with their men. Our ages range from 33 to 70 years old, with varying degree of riding skill and fitness level. Average age would be around 50, at a guess. But each of us is aware of our own motorcycle handling abilities, and wisely stay within each own capacity. The more spirited stuck close to the lead bike while not too far back, the cooler heads brought up the rear. It does not really matter because if there is a fork, the lead would stop until the pack caught up, and usually that takes only a minute or so. I can remember only one occasion when someone missed the turn. William was acting as the last man, having done five of these tours already and easily the most experience in this sort of terrain. Once in a while, somebody(me) would slip and fall, or have a puncture, or bit of problem with the bike’s engine. But among the 4-supporting crew, we have a mechanic with a magic right thumb, that can start-up any stubborn engine. He knew how to press the buttons. They were station at the tail end of our convoy.

The Misadventures

On the 7^th day, we rode from Padum to Sarchu. (Skipping the first few days here because I was sick as a dog). We had two high mountain passes to traverse this day. We took a break on the plain before Shinkula, the first pass. In front of us stood the sacred Mighty Gonboranjon Mountain. A message was pass down the line about this mountain. I made fun of the name of the mountain. The narrow road was deserted and everyone was parked in a straight line by the side. My bike was on its side-stand leaning to the left and resting securely on hard ground. For some reason, I just fell off the bike, to the right. And then the bike followed, nearly catching my legs. I think everyone was as amazed as I was. I wasn’t hurt at all (except perhaps my ego). Right there and then, I suspected that it was the disrespect I showed by making fun of the sacred mountain. I apologised quietly, and sincerely, and in fear of my safety. I am normally not a disrespectful person.

Thankfully, we cleared the two mountain passes safely. Me and my big mouth. Video link here Ryan’s Ride

That night, we broke journey at Sarchu, a wide open and barren plain at more then 4000m altitude. The road to Hanle runs through the plain. We spent a night there in tents with ‘en suite’ toilet. Doesn’t change anything though as it was also bitterly cold. The cold wind swept across the plain unimpeded and the tents we were in, though heavy-duty and well batten down, was no match against the cold. Somebody started a camp fire and I could manage only about 10 minutes in the open before diving into the tent for cover.

Day 8-So glad that we are leaving the tents today. ‘Glamping’ it wasn’t. It has become The Great Himalayan Guided Torture for me. I have had diarrhea for the past 5 nights now. When I first got it, I visited the toilet 7 times during the night. The next night, 6 times. I barely slept. It usually starts at about 11pm. I had to rush to the bowl and exploded into it. Even worse was the back-splatter from the liquid discharge that peppered my butt and thighs. So, toilet paper can’t do a proper cleaning job. I had to use the bidet spray. Washing your butt with frigid water and in near zero ambient temperature is not much fun. To make sure it hasn’t fallen off due to the cold, I had to search for my little kookoo bird as it has shrunk to size of my little pinkie. It would be disastrous if it fell off and got flushed away in the toilet.

Repeat the same process 6 more times during the night. For the next 3 nights.

And through it all, Linus slumbered & snored. Young people are so amazing. And annoying.

It was only after the fourth day that my body begin recovering. Only 3 visits to the toilet through the night. I was weak from just eating biscuits and drinking water. Sometimes, I couldn’t push the bike off its side stand. To make it worse, the first difficult obstacle of Day 8 was to crossed a dip or trough about 5 ft. drop and up the other side of roughly the same height. A stream flowed along at the bottom of the steep ‘V’, making the rocks and pebbles slippery. Linus was ahead of me and I watched his line. He was nearly thrown off but managed a ‘save’ by his quick reaction. Somebody else passed along the left of Linus’ line and made it easily. And for some reason, I followed Linus’ track even though I told myself to go left. And of course I fell. Perhaps the Mountain is still angry with me. I turn off the ignition and Vikram appeared beside me and rode the bike up. All this happened very quickly and before I knew it, we were on the way again. No damage, except to ego. I guess the lack of sleep and time spent on the throne is taking its toll. Yes, I was pretty fucked-up.

Day 9- Moving towards the Eastern sector of Ladakh. We visited the Indian Astronomical Observatory which is planted on the peak of Mt Saraswati, Hanle. A 2m gamma ray Himalayan Chandra Telescope is housed within the observatory. This is also a sensitive area because of its proximity to China. You would be able to closely and clearly observed the Milky Way from here because of the absence of light and atmospheric pollution. The air is crisp and clear, and starve of oxygen. It was only a short walk up a gentle incline from where we parked to the observatory. But it was a laboriously slow climb for me in my weakened state as I try to suck oxygen into my lungs from the thin air. It is cold here and, in the valley, as well. I remember asking a local at the Ama Cottage where we bunked what the temperature was. He said it was below zero during the night, a fact proven by the presence of melting frost on our motorcycles in the morning.

We had lunch at the Milky Way Café before visiting the Observatory. The road to Hanle is actually rideable, quite smooth in comparison with what we went through the past week. Maybe because of the many army camps and tanks battalion around here. Men and machines have to move fast if war breaks out. The infrastructure has to support these movements. Its just my guess.

We checked into this place called Ama Cottage. It was about 4pm and still sunny but cool in the shade. I took the opportunity to go bare-body, and soak up the warmth from the sun, following Gaston’s example. It feels damn good. Even had a hot shower, a shave and hair-wash which made me felt much better. I had a heavier dinner as I experience some recovery. But I refrain from alcohol. I hope for a better sleep tonight.

Umling La-The highest motorable road in the world, at 5799m. The next day, we rode from Ama Cottage to the pass, departing around 8am. This area is also very close to Tibet in the East. Access to the village which lies at the border is restricted. There was a brief break for ‘chai’ just before ascending Umling La. As we mounted to leave, William asked me to move off first. As I rejoined the road, I thought I saw some motorcycles disappearing around a switchback some distance above where I was. They were at least three switchbacks and straights ahead of me. I glanced back and saw Linus and 3 others behind me. I didn’t want to hold the pack back so I started accelerating, intending to catch up with Vikram and the leading pack. Those behind me also sped up. I continue to pressed on, getting quicker around the bends and accelerating harder once I apexed. “Bloody hell. Those guys in front are fast! It’s been a while and I still don’t see them.”, I thought to myself. I rode even harder. After a while, I begin to wonder. “Did I actually saw Vikram in front or have I made a mistake? It would be bad riding etiquette to passed the lead without some sort of acknowledgement. But then again, I thought I was just catching up.” I hesitated for a brief moment, and decided. “What the hell. If I am going to get an earful, might as well I go in to the hilt. Furthermore, I am actually enjoying the blast, treacherous though the terrain might be.” Open road and freedom beckon. With that out of the way, I adopted a more aggressive position, elbows out, body leaning slightly forward, head down and went for it. The tension and the frustration from my sickness evaporated as I re-tune my senses, casting everything aside and concentrating fully on the road, trying to anticipate the apexes, skimming over potholes and controlling the twitches and loss of traction over gravel & sand which I chose not to avoid. It was the perfect antidote for the weakness brought on by the diarrhea. I came alive! Much later, I slowed down and stopped at a clear stretch of asphalt. And to my surprise, Vikram rolled up beside me from behind. So all the time, I thought I was chasing Vikram in front, when he was actually behind chasing me. Hahaha. Me chasing Vikram chasing me!

But what a blast!!! I actually felt much better then I have been the last few days. Recovery is nigh!

Umling La was crowded with tourist. At the peak of this mountain pass, there is a concrete sign with magnificent vista in the background. Many tourists, local and foreign, were queuing to get their photos taken at this spot. This pass is manned by soldiers. Wonderful views all around and everybody was like in a celebratory mood, having reached this highest motorable road in the world. It was like a party, everybody happy and smiling. Everybody was using the camera. Fun.

Half an hour later, we were making our way down. I fell in line and followed meekly. But the day is not over. There’s more to come.

Before we get to Ama Cottage, we had to traverse a huge piece of flat land about 30km long. The edges of this flat land stretches miles away, right up to the foot of the mountain ranges that flank us. Vikram nominated Ben, to lead us back as he had to attend to some mechanical problem on one of the other motorcycles. Although the land looks flat, it is by no means so. The dirt was soft and can easily trap the unwary. Some dirt was pile as high as the knees, like an embankment with narrow opening in between, and faint traces of tracks made earlier, inviting you to come and get trapped. I went through one of these openings on 3rd or 4th and was abruptly brought to a near-stop. Front and rear tyres sank into a foot of soft sand. The handlebar whipped and thrashed wildly, left-right-left-right several times, nearly ripping my arms off. I hung on for dear life and kept the rev up. Luckily, there was just enough inertial and torque to just pushed me through. Phew! No skill, just luck. There was also vicious dips and humps. It was impossible to follow the track of the motorcycle in front because their tyres were kicking up so much dust. It’s safer to find your own track. The land is so wide that it can easily accommodate a few hundred bikes side-by-side. I am no expert in this field yet I thoroughly enjoyed this 30km stretch. Sliding and twisting and squirming in the dirt. It was so much fun.

And yet more fun, for as we were within sight of Ama Cottage, we were accosted by a stream, or river, with Ama Cottage opposite. Dave, in his water-proof boots took the initiative and waded into the river to check the depth. He gave the all-clear and Ben bravely plunged in first, and made it safely onto the opposite bank. One-by-one, we followed in Ben the Brave’s track. It was only half-a-wheel deep. We all made it, happy and smiling. Our motorcycles freshly washed. Yeah!!!! River crossing!!

And so, ends one of the happier days of the ride.

Mishaps on Day 11-Today, we make the journey back to Leh. Distance is about 250km. We were told we had good road but to be careful. Traffic is faster and less polite as we neared Leh.

We rode leisurely and break for lunch at Café d Hot Spring, Chumathang Valley. Pizza, Club Sandwich, coffee & tea available. Went to the back of the café and sure enough, there was a hot spring bubbling out of the ground, emanating heat into the air around it. The hot water was channel through a couple of concrete enclosure so anyone can have a hot bath at any time. Pretty cool. News also starts trickling in about the mishap suffered by one of the Mahindra Bolero. It is one of our 2 support-vehicle. According to the driver, he was forced off the road by a heavy vehicle. It now lies on its side, on the dirt by the road. Fortunately, no one was hurt. Vikram is riding back to the place of the accident, some 20km from our starting point this morning. A crane/tow vehicle was organised and the vehicle put back on the road. It could still be driven and damage was limited. The vehicle also made it to Leh that night.

One other mishap: Eng Lee met with an accident. We were already in Leh and less then 3km from the hotel. He came in contact with the side of a car and went down. He was taken to the hospital. Meanwhile, we were clueless until Dawa went looking for them after we arrived at the hotel. Andreu was with Eng Lee at the time of the accident and accompanied him to the hospital. And render assistance until Vikram arrived much later, after sorting out the incident with the Bolero. Stressful day for Mr. Vikram too. He would have pulled out his hair if he had any. And also very fortunately, Eng Lee could still hobble around, albeit with crutches and help from Andreu. Vikram has to face the procedure and the bureaucracy to get Eng Lee discharge from hospital.

The guy on the left is Andreu. Eng Lee assisted by Jess and Jim at New Delhi.

The next 2 days were spent exploring the Main Bazaar in Leh. Bought a couple of gifts for the people back home. All the merchants in Leh will shut their bussinesses after this weekend. This happens annually as winter sets in. Streets will be deserted. The merchants and residents normally head south to places like Goa to escape the cold winter here.

We had a BBQ dinner the following night. Linus gave his helmet to Dawa while mine was given to Pravin. We have cleaned up the helmets the best we could. Pravin couldn’t believe I gave the helmet away. He hugged the helmet close to his chest, and gave it a peck on the crown. I was taken aback by his response. It brought a lump to my throat.

I question myself. Do I realise how lucky I am? Does Linus? Do we all? It may be a seven-year-old helmet and yet it is so precious in his eyes. I need to re-learn humility, and have empathy.

From Andreu, I saw how he stood by Eng Lee when he went down, and continue to assist him on many difficult and troublesome occasions, till departure from India. He did it without being asked. Andreu has my respect. He is a human, and has the spirit of a biker. In fact, when Eng Lee required assistance, the ones nearest to him usually reacted without hesitation, whoever they may be.

And the supporting crew: no doubt they are paid and are just doing their job. But I could sense that there was genuine concern for us when things go wrong. Like the first few days of this ride when I was really sick. Pravin insisted that I sit in the car and someone else will ride. He was very insistent. A stubborn and adamant me rode on.

And the ladies in our group who gave me the biscuits and advise and medication when I was down. They could have simply ignored me. Believe me, the biscuits help a lot as, apart from bread at breakfast, I survived on the biscuits for the rest of the day. Those were my mainstay for days.

And the guys as well. Dave gave me his emergency medication. When I got stuck in soft sand at a hairpin, Gaston rushed in to helped me out. And the others as well. Whenever I fell, someone would surely come forward and lend a hand.

To the whole troupe, including those in India, Linus and I are very honoured to have made your acquaintances. I may be the oldest and Linus the youngest, but we are still learning from all of you. Thanks for the ride.

RESPECT.

Mountain passes traversed (not in any order):

1. Umling La            5799m
2. Hambuting La    5359m
3. Pensi La               4400m
4. Nurbu La             5251m
5. Bara Lacha La     4850m
6. Nakee La             4738m
7. Lachung La         5059m
8. Tanglang La        5328m
9. Shinku La 5091m

Fun Facts

1. Disposable lighters do not work at high altitude
2. No internet connection after New Delhi
3. Power banks not allowed in check-in baggage
4. Up to 2 litres of alcohol allowed into India
5. Dawa! Dawa! Quick! Come! My car fall down! (Vijay the mechanic over radio when the Balero flipped)

Jaywalker

2 Oct. 2024

Visit India. More photos here.

see earlier posts https://2wheelsandanengine.travel.blog/