Midnight, 8 Nov. 2024 – It was cloudless. I looked up and there it was : Orion’s Belt. To the north from where I stood, at about 45 degrees vertical angle. The three stars in a straight line, slightly tilted to the North. Almost to the date a year ago, give or take a couple of weeks, I was looking at the same stars from the shores of the Gulf of Thailand, in the province of Prachuap Khiri Khan. I was riding solo and had no firm plan for the next day. I missed home at that time, and now, I miss those moments. I want to do another trip soon.
The euphoria that usually follows the completion of a good road trip is ebbing. It’s been many days since we returned from Ladakh. The brain fog that manifested me during the first week of the trip has cleared, together with the diarrhea and bloody snot from broken blood vessels in my nasal or sinus cavity. I am almost fit. ‘Almost’ because I managed to damaged my ankle during squash just days ago. I am so accident-prone.
I can now recall the first week of the ride more clearly. How our carelessness caused us to missed the Delhi/Leh connection, the ensuing anxiety, and the relief we felt after arriving at Leh the next day without forcing any change to the ride schedule.
After collecting our motorcycles at Leh, we set off on the ride proper. Our next stop would be the Aryan Residency in Dah. The hotel was next to a quiet road, by a noisy fast-flowing Indus River. The people here are said to be of Persian or Iranian origin. But I am not certain. An old lady in traditional attire was helping in the hotel. Maybe that’s the Aryan culture they are talking about?
Indus River
Next day, Vikram took us to Hambuting La, a high mountain pass. It was on the way to Kargil. Just a quick stop for some photos and then onwards to Kargil.
Caravan Sarai
At Kargil, we checked into Hotel Caravan Sarai. Santana the Latin rock band made an album of the same name. I didn’t like it very much and don’t know if it was connected to Indian culture. We spent two nights at Kargil. On the first day, while roaming around on foot in town, we went into a restaurant that serves mutton with rice. After washing our hands, we went local consuming the tasty meat, forgoing the fork & spoon. I took a big gulp of water from a tin cup, the water from a jug on the table. That was the moment I effed-up. I remembered, quite vividly, Linus looking at me disapprovingly as I drank. So far, we only drank from bottled water. Linus and I had exactly the same food for the last few days. Except this big mouthful of water.
And that night, I retched and puked into the wash basin as I couldn’t make it to the bowl in time. Spent half an hour scooping the spew from the basin into the toilet bowl and cleaning up. Otherwise, the stench would be unbearable in the morning. My troubles began.
The next morning, we rode up to a summit where an army camp was located. It was a fortified border post overlooking the border with Pakistan. We were not allowed any further. We are probably here just for bragging rights, to say that “We been here!” The final stretch to this summit was much narrower and more hazardous. The bends & twists were much closer to each other. The sentry allowed Vikram to make a U-turn just inside the gated compound while the rest of us re-grouped just outside the gate. Coming down, we stopped to look at an abandoned cluster of huts. The huts were built by piling & stacking stone to form walls. It was once a Pakistani village but now deserted and under India’s control. From our vantage, it was a pretty stark landscape where the huts stood, on the mountainside just above the bottom of the valley. Those with stronger legs went to explore. The sun beat down relentlessly on the rugged and desolate site. For sure I wouldn’t survive here.
Abandon hamlet 1Abandon hamlet 2Abandon hamlet 3
Slightly further down, we came to an observation post where we peered at a bunker on the Pakistan side through binoculars (for a fee). We were right at the border.
We also visited the Kargil War Memorial. In 1998-1999 India & Pakistan were at war. When winter was at its coldest, the Pakistani Forces surprised the Indians and were able to advance to this point. They fought here and eventually, the Indians managed to regain control. The Memorial lies near the foot of the towering Dras Mountain Range, along the main road to Leh. The nearby Tiger Hill has an outpost high at its peak. William pointed it to us but it was just too far and too high to clearly see. Looking at the mountains from the Memorial, we are probably seeing some of the battlegrounds of the war. The Memorial also include the burial ground for the fallen soldiers. We are not allowed to step in there. The Army runs this Memorial and under strict protocol. Visitors are vetted. Those who have travelled to China or have a Chinese Visa Stamp in their passports are denied entry. Pakistan is probably included in the ban.
Took a dump in their clean and well-maintain toilet.
Pretty rough & tough part of the country we were in.
Kargil War Memnorial
Kargil itself has numerous army camps, tanks battalion and artillery barrage. What I saw was just like in Metal Gear Solid, a ‘tactical espionage operation’ kind of computer game. The video footage has features very similar to real physical geography of Kargil, cold and desert-like. The dominant khaki colour, the sand, the barracks and camps, the compounds and vehicles, the camouflage, the weaponry and the troops bore uncanny resemblance to the real thing in Kargil. I believe that game was base on the war in Afghanistan. In real time, the roads here are generally better maintained. I guess it is to facilitate movements of troops & machine efficiently. Given its history and proximity to the borders, I am not surprise.
Glaziers in the background
The ride so far has been good. The terrain is rough and challenging and the air, cold & arid. There is no lush forest in these mountains. Instead, we rode past many glaziers. Many of them. Awesome scenery. But to truly enjoy the view, you have to stop at viewpoints because you better be watching the road while riding. The switchbacks/hairpins up and down the mountains are tricky, and treacherous at times. I would say that 30% of the total distance travelled on the whole trip were roads that once have asphalt but now rough and broken, especially the surfaces of the switchbacks. 30% to unpaved roads. Maybe 25% are good tar road. The rest would be earth dug out of the slopes, flattened but unpaved, and steam-rolled to make them passable. Gravelly and sandy. Video links here Murad’s view and here A Bit Slippery
But it is manageable. It wouldn’t be fun & challenging if it is anything else. And not forgetting the terrific flat land and a couple of river crossings.
Road Works. Have to wait a while. That’s how it’s done in the mountains.
Distances travelled each day varies but were all within the tolerable limit. And the weather is a boon and a bane. Riding in the daytime in layers of clothing is comfortable. Hands might get a little cold. And the cold also keeps you awake. But come dusks, temperature dip, at times below 0-degree C. Hotels, or more correctly, accommodations here have generators that run from 7pm to 10pm. But not always. There is no heating in the rooms. The hot water is not constantly heated. Once during a bath, the water turned frigid. I had to fill the pail up and quickly finish with ice-cold water, and towelled gently so that my frozen nipples won’t fall off.
18/9, Day 5- Today, we head for Padum. Gaston has suffered numerous punctures on his rear tyre . Because of some imperfections within the rim. This morning, the rim has to be properly fixed before we roll. Vikram stayed behind to help fix the problem while Gaston took his bike. It is the supporting crew’s responsibility to get the bike running safe. Which meant that we are one ride short. Linus came to the rescue by taking Dawa as pillion/guide. Dawa is a young lad, on break from uni, slight of build, a little smaller then Linus. They led us for the initial part of today’s ride till our usual ‘chai’ break at the La Himalaya Restaurant & Guesthouse, Rangdum. Vikram, with the tyre issue resolved, caught up. From there, Dawa on his own, took the lead using Vikram’s motorcycle, and blasted down the road, a single-lane, 2-way highway with no road markings but in good condition. This is Dawas’ homeground. Linus gleefully followed, cranking up the throttle, with Ryan & me chasing. We stole a head start on the others. Hahaha. Ryan has mounted his 360deg cam tripod high on his handlebar. It was like a ‘tomahawk’ chopping and parting the invisible air, as if to clear a turbulence-free path for us. We raced. Well, sort of. A pretty good ride with many curves and bends on clean road and pretty flat all the way to Padum. Happy!
Boots & leathers cleaned and oiled, ready to rock.
This was my first Fly And Ride Trip, or FART.
For now, 2-wheel wanderlust is temporarily sated. I am calming down. But many of my mates ride, and it won’t be long before I get lured into another road trip.
We encountered some Zombies practising their moves
It happened again. Every time I set out for a long trip, something unexpected would happen that caused inconvenience, anxiety, delay, amusement, etc, and this year was no different. I go one better this year, because our little ‘snafu’ caused monetary loss and possibly missing Day 1 of the ride. To recap, in 2022 my phone flew off its cradle which was clamped to the handle bar even before I arrive at Tuas ICQ. 2023 saw me being held up at the same Tuas ICQ but that time, causing alarm and triggering an emergency response which brought out a section of policemen armed with assault weapons ready to apprehend me. This year, together with Linus, we managed to missed the connecting flight from Delhi to Leh. And we had to purchased new tickets for the following morning’s red-eye flight and check into the Centaur Hotel near the airport. And we narrowly missed getting bumped off again due to a ‘power bank’ that was in my check-in baggage. Although we made it to Leh, it was a pretty fine line.
So okay. Linus and I have accepted William’s invites to his ‘Ride of Your Life-Himalayas Adventure’. I didn’t expect Linus to show any interest but to my surprise, he asked if he could join the ride. Of course, William was happy to have him, and for me, doubly so. I have never toured with Linus on motorcycles before but together with Lavina my eldest, we went diving at Moal Boal, off the island of Cebu some years back.
I did the packing for us both, being more experience in packing for longer motorcycle trips. This time, I made sure that we have enough warm clothing and not forget the THERMALS like I did in ’17 when I rode to Tibet which has similar weather conditions.
There were thirteen of us on rental Royal Enfield’s Himalayan 411cc. The guide, Mr. Vikram makes us fourteen. Two spouses were also in the pack, riding pillion occasionally when the terrain permits. I would surmise that riding pillion is less stressful then as a pax in a 4-wheel vehicle. With the terrain as rough as it is, the pax get tossed around the cabin, their heads swinging erratically, like an upside-down pendulum, as the driver weaved through the potholes and ruts. It’s hard to keep the four wheels on an even keel as the terrain switched from bad roads to even worse ones all day long. Terrain here also means roads which once have asphalt. It is common to have long stretches of sand, loose stones and gravel, with a little respite sometimes, where some parts of the mountains are being carved and steam-roll to make new paths or roads that have newly-filled potholes.
A deserted Pakistani Village. How rugged can it get.
The region we were in, Ladakh, is situated on the south facing side of the Himalayas. Elevation above MSL range from 2750m at Kargil to 7672m in the Karakoram. It shares borders with China to the North and East, and Pakistan to the West. This is but a very brief and general description. I hope that I am not too wrong. Around the Drass Mountain Range after Kargil, we were able to see Pakistani bunkers through binoculars from a POI on a mountain on the India side. A majority of the Kargil population are Muslims. Not surprising given its close proximity to Pakistan. In 1999, India & Pakistan were at war in this region. There is a tiny monastery located close to a huge mosque, near to Hotel Caravan Sarai where we stayed. It is so tiny that we have to stoop to get in through its worn doorway and its interior is less than 5 sq. m. The small structure was put together using very basic materials. Linus & I made a small contribution.
Excluding Vikram the guide/boss, we are a group of fifteen people from different walks of life. This number include 2 spouses who occasionally rode with their men. Our ages range from 33 to 70 years old, with varying degree of riding skill and fitness level. Average age would be around 50, at a guess. But each of us is aware of our own motorcycle handling abilities, and wisely stay within each own capacity. The more spirited stuck close to the lead bike while not too far back, the cooler heads brought up the rear. It does not really matter because if there is a fork, the lead would stop until the pack caught up, and usually that takes only a minute or so. I can remember only one occasion when someone missed the turn. William was acting as the last man, having done five of these tours already and easily the most experience in this sort of terrain. Once in a while, somebody(me) would slip and fall, or have a puncture, or bit of problem with the bike’s engine. But among the 4-supporting crew, we have a mechanic with a magic right thumb, that can start-up any stubborn engine. He knew how to press the buttons. They were station at the tail end of our convoy.
The calm before the storm
The Misadventures
On the 7th day, we rode from Padum to Sarchu. (Skipping the first few days here because I was sick as a dog). We had two high mountain passes to traverse this day. We took a break on the plain before Shinkula, the first pass. In front of us stood the sacred Mighty Gonboranjon Mountain. A message was pass down the line about this mountain. I made fun of the name of the mountain. The narrow road was deserted and everyone was parked in a straight line by the side. My bike was on its side-stand leaning to the left and resting securely on hard ground. For some reason, I just fell off the bike, to the right. And then the bike followed, nearly catching my legs. I think everyone was as amazed as I was. I wasn’t hurt at all (except perhaps my ego). Right there and then, I suspected that it was the disrespect I showed by making fun of the sacred mountain. I apologised quietly, and sincerely, and in fear of my safety. I am normally not a disrespectful person.
Thankfully, we cleared the two mountain passes safely. Me and my big mouth. Video link here Ryan’s Ride
That night, we broke journey at Sarchu, a wide open and barren plain at more then 4000m altitude. The road to Hanle runs through the plain. We spent a night there in tents with ‘en suite’ toilet. Doesn’t change anything though as it was also bitterly cold. The cold wind swept across the plain unimpeded and the tents we were in, though heavy-duty and well batten down, was no match against the cold. Somebody started a camp fire and I could manage only about 10 minutes in the open before diving into the tent for cover.
Day 8-So glad that we are leaving the tents today. ‘Glamping’ it wasn’t. It has become The Great Himalayan Guided Torture for me. I have had diarrhea for the past 5 nights now. When I first got it, I visited the toilet 7 times during the night. The next night, 6 times. I barely slept. It usually starts at about 11pm. I had to rush to the bowl and exploded into it. Even worse was the back-splatter from the liquid discharge that peppered my butt and thighs. So, toilet paper can’t do a proper cleaning job. I had to use the bidet spray. Washing your butt with frigid water and in near zero ambient temperature is not much fun. To make sure it hasn’t fallen off due to the cold, I had to search for my little kookoo bird as it has shrunk to size of my little pinkie. It would be disastrous if it fell off and got flushed away in the toilet.
Repeat the same process 6 more times during the night. For the next 3 nights.
And through it all, Linus slumbered & snored. Young people are so amazing. And annoying.
It was only after the fourth day that my body begin recovering. Only 3 visits to the toilet through the night. I was weak from just eating biscuits and drinking water. Sometimes, I couldn’t push the bike off its side stand. To make it worse, the first difficult obstacle of Day 8 was to crossed a dip or trough about 5 ft. drop and up the other side of roughly the same height. A stream flowed along at the bottom of the steep ‘V’, making the rocks and pebbles slippery. Linus was ahead of me and I watched his line. He was nearly thrown off but managed a ‘save’ by his quick reaction. Somebody else passed along the left of Linus’ line and made it easily. And for some reason, I followed Linus’ track even though I told myself to go left. And of course I fell. Perhaps the Mountain is still angry with me. I turn off the ignition and Vikram appeared beside me and rode the bike up. All this happened very quickly and before I knew it, we were on the way again. No damage, except to ego. I guess the lack of sleep and time spent on the throne is taking its toll. Yes, I was pretty fucked-up.
As we continued towards our next destination, Linus’ fuel pump broke down twice. I had one more fall in soft sand. A gentle and graceful fall, the bike was held and let down softly to avoid any scratch/damage. LOL. What a day!
Day 9- Moving towards the Eastern sector of Ladakh. We visited the Indian Astronomical Observatory which is planted on the peak of Mt Saraswati, Hanle. A 2m gamma ray Himalayan Chandra Telescope is housed within the observatory. This is also a sensitive area because of its proximity to China. You would be able to closely and clearly observed the Milky Way from here because of the absence of light and atmospheric pollution. The air is crisp and clear, and starve of oxygen. It was only a short walk up a gentle incline from where we parked to the observatory. But it was a laboriously slow climb for me in my weakened state as I try to suck oxygen into my lungs from the thin air. It is cold here and, in the valley, as well. I remember asking a local at the Ama Cottage where we bunked what the temperature was. He said it was below zero during the night, a fact proven by the presence of melting frost on our motorcycles in the morning.
We had lunch at the Milky Way Café before visiting the Observatory. The road to Hanle is actually rideable, quite smooth in comparison with what we went through the past week. Maybe because of the many army camps and tanks battalion around here. Men and machines have to move fast if war breaks out. The infrastructure has to support these movements. Its just my guess.
We checked into this place called Ama Cottage. It was about 4pm and still sunny but cool in the shade. I took the opportunity to go bare-body, and soak up the warmth from the sun, following Gaston’s example. It feels damn good. Even had a hot shower, a shave and hair-wash which made me felt much better. I had a heavier dinner as I experience some recovery. But I refrain from alcohol. I hope for a better sleep tonight.
Umling La-The highest motorable road in the world, at 5799m. The next day, we rode from Ama Cottage to the pass, departing around 8am. This area is also very close to Tibet in the East. Access to the village which lies at the border is restricted. There was a brief break for ‘chai’ just before ascending Umling La. As we mounted to leave, William asked me to move off first. As I rejoined the road, I thought I saw some motorcycles disappearing around a switchback some distance above where I was. They were at least three switchbacks and straights ahead of me. I glanced back and saw Linus and 3 others behind me. I didn’t want to hold the pack back so I started accelerating, intending to catch up with Vikram and the leading pack. Those behind me also sped up. I continue to pressed on, getting quicker around the bends and accelerating harder once I apexed. “Bloody hell. Those guys in front are fast! It’s been a while and I still don’t see them.”, I thought to myself. I rode even harder. After a while, I begin to wonder. “Did I actually saw Vikram in front or have I made a mistake? It would be bad riding etiquette to passed the lead without some sort of acknowledgement. But then again, I thought I was just catching up.” I hesitated for a brief moment, and decided. “What the hell. If I am going to get an earful, might as well I go in to the hilt. Furthermore, I am actually enjoying the blast, treacherous though the terrain might be.” Open road and freedom beckon. With that out of the way, I adopted a more aggressive position, elbows out, body leaning slightly forward, head down and went for it. The tension and the frustration from my sickness evaporated as I re-tune my senses, casting everything aside and concentrating fully on the road, trying to anticipate the apexes, skimming over potholes and controlling the twitches and loss of traction over gravel & sand which I chose not to avoid. It was the perfect antidote for the weakness brought on by the diarrhea. I came alive! Much later, I slowed down and stopped at a clear stretch of asphalt. And to my surprise, Vikram rolled up beside me from behind. So all the time, I thought I was chasing Vikram in front, when he was actually behind chasing me. Hahaha. Me chasing Vikram chasing me!
But what a blast!!! I actually felt much better then I have been the last few days. Recovery is nigh!
Umling La was crowded with tourist. At the peak of this mountain pass, there is a concrete sign with magnificent vista in the background. Many tourists, local and foreign, were queuing to get their photos taken at this spot. This pass is manned by soldiers. Wonderful views all around and everybody was like in a celebratory mood, having reached this highest motorable road in the world. It was like a party, everybody happy and smiling. Everybody was using the camera. Fun.
Half an hour later, we were making our way down. I fell in line and followed meekly. But the day is not over. There’s more to come.
Before we get to Ama Cottage, we had to traverse a huge piece of flat land about 30km long. The edges of this flat land stretches miles away, right up to the foot of the mountain ranges that flank us. Vikram nominated Ben, to lead us back as he had to attend to some mechanical problem on one of the other motorcycles. Although the land looks flat, it is by no means so. The dirt was soft and can easily trap the unwary. Some dirt was pile as high as the knees, like an embankment with narrow opening in between, and faint traces of tracks made earlier, inviting you to come and get trapped. I went through one of these openings on 3rd or 4th and was abruptly brought to a near-stop. Front and rear tyres sank into a foot of soft sand. The handlebar whipped and thrashed wildly, left-right-left-right several times, nearly ripping my arms off. I hung on for dear life and kept the rev up. Luckily, there was just enough inertial and torque to just pushed me through. Phew! No skill, just luck. There was also vicious dips and humps. It was impossible to follow the track of the motorcycle in front because their tyres were kicking up so much dust. It’s safer to find your own track. The land is so wide that it can easily accommodate a few hundred bikes side-by-side. I am no expert in this field yet I thoroughly enjoyed this 30km stretch. Sliding and twisting and squirming in the dirt. It was so much fun.
And yet more fun, for as we were within sight of Ama Cottage, we were accosted by a stream, or river, with Ama Cottage opposite. Dave, in his water-proof boots took the initiative and waded into the river to check the depth. He gave the all-clear and Ben bravely plunged in first, and made it safely onto the opposite bank. One-by-one, we followed in Ben the Brave’s track. It was only half-a-wheel deep. We all made it, happy and smiling. Our motorcycles freshly washed. Yeah!!!! River crossing!!
And so, ends one of the happier days of the ride.
Mishaps on Day 11-Today, we make the journey back to Leh. Distance is about 250km. We were told we had good road but to be careful. Traffic is faster and less polite as we neared Leh.
We rode leisurely and break for lunch at Café d Hot Spring, Chumathang Valley. Pizza, Club Sandwich, coffee & tea available. Went to the back of the café and sure enough, there was a hot spring bubbling out of the ground, emanating heat into the air around it. The hot water was channel through a couple of concrete enclosure so anyone can have a hot bath at any time. Pretty cool. News also starts trickling in about the mishap suffered by one of the Mahindra Bolero. It is one of our 2 support-vehicle. According to the driver, he was forced off the road by a heavy vehicle. It now lies on its side, on the dirt by the road. Fortunately, no one was hurt. Vikram is riding back to the place of the accident, some 20km from our starting point this morning. A crane/tow vehicle was organised and the vehicle put back on the road. It could still be driven and damage was limited. The vehicle also made it to Leh that night.
One other mishap: Eng Lee met with an accident. We were already in Leh and less then 3km from the hotel. He came in contact with the side of a car and went down. He was taken to the hospital. Meanwhile, we were clueless until Dawa went looking for them after we arrived at the hotel. Andreu was with Eng Lee at the time of the accident and accompanied him to the hospital. And render assistance until Vikram arrived much later, after sorting out the incident with the Bolero. Stressful day for Mr. Vikram too. He would have pulled out his hair if he had any. And also very fortunately, Eng Lee could still hobble around, albeit with crutches and help from Andreu. Vikram has to face the procedure and the bureaucracy to get Eng Lee discharge from hospital.
The guy on the left is Andreu. Eng Lee assisted by Jess and Jim at New Delhi.
The next 2 days were spent exploring the Main Bazaar in Leh. Bought a couple of gifts for the people back home. All the merchants in Leh will shut their bussinesses after this weekend. This happens annually as winter sets in. Streets will be deserted. The merchants and residents normally head south to places like Goa to escape the cold winter here.
We had a BBQ dinner the following night. Linus gave his helmet to Dawa while mine was given to Pravin. We have cleaned up the helmets the best we could. Pravin couldn’t believe I gave the helmet away. He hugged the helmet close to his chest, and gave it a peck on the crown. I was taken aback by his response. It brought a lump to my throat.
I question myself. Do I realise how lucky I am? Does Linus? Do we all? It may be a seven-year-old helmet and yet it is so precious in his eyes. I need to re-learn humility, and have empathy.
From Andreu, I saw how he stood by Eng Lee when he went down, and continue to assist him on many difficult and troublesome occasions, till departure from India. He did it without being asked. Andreu has my respect. He is a human, and has the spirit of a biker. In fact, when Eng Lee required assistance, the ones nearest to him usually reacted without hesitation, whoever they may be.
And the supporting crew: no doubt they are paid and are just doing their job. But I could sense that there was genuine concern for us when things go wrong. Like the first few days of this ride when I was really sick. Pravin insisted that I sit in the car and someone else will ride. He was very insistent. A stubborn and adamant me rode on.
And the ladies in our group who gave me the biscuits and advise and medication when I was down. They could have simply ignored me. Believe me, the biscuits help a lot as, apart from bread at breakfast, I survived on the biscuits for the rest of the day. Those were my mainstay for days.
And the guys as well. Dave gave me his emergency medication. When I got stuck in soft sand at a hairpin, Gaston rushed in to helped me out. And the others as well. Whenever I fell, someone would surely come forward and lend a hand.
To the whole troupe, including those in India, Linus and I are very honoured to have made your acquaintances. I may be the oldest and Linus the youngest, but we are still learning from all of you. Thanks for the ride.
RESPECT.
Mountain passes traversed (not in any order):
Umling La 5799m
Hambuting La 5359m
Pensi La 4400m
Nurbu La 5251m
Bara Lacha La 4850m
Nakee La 4738m
Lachung La 5059m
Tanglang La 5328m
Shinku La 5091m
Fun Facts
Disposable lighters do not work at high altitude
No internet connection after New Delhi
Power banks not allowed in check-in baggage
Up to 2 litres of alcohol allowed into India
Dawa! Dawa! Quick! Come! My car fall down! (Vijay the mechanic over radio when the Balero flipped)
Unbidden, upon rolling waves, Grief revisits In misery, beneath stoic facade, wary I hid And after, battered and broken yet bold “Find courage. Live. Ride,” to me he once told And the waves still roll………
Indie K and I rode from Chiang Khong to Prachuap, with stopovers at Uttaradit and Suphan Buri. This morning at Prachuap, I will part with Indie K, who shall stay another day to explore Prachuap while I continue South.
It has been very satisfying travelling with Indie K, and observing his modus operandi during the ride. It was a no-brainer that, with his wealth of experience & knowledge of Thailand, he did the routing & stopovers while I happily tagged along, and thankful for the company. If we were not together, I would then be riding solo( >2600km) South after Chiang Khong as the others were heading back to Chiangmai. At least now, I have someone to talk with during dinners. Indie K plans were clear and concise with some elbow room built in. On the road, he steadfastly kept a cruising speed suitable for his CB500X. Always does his homework and review destinations so that when we arrived, little time is lost. Efficient. And quite prudent. A stickler for details, his laundry days and locations of laundromats are all pre-determined. He was using Google Map for navigation while I, Nav5. The routing may differ slightly but the destinations usually matched.
In other words, he is my opposite. I usually muddled along, the plan in my mushy grey(ing) cells that somehow always got me there, sometimes as schedule, but always nail-bitingly so. Maybe that’s what provided the cheap thrills and kept me coming back for more.
We were 6-strong
In all, there were four CB500X and a CBR300Rally, arguably the best sort of bikes for touring Thailand, and a R1200R(the odd one out). Cruising speed varies, as riding the Northern Regions, you don’t really want to go at ‘Autobahn’ speed and missed all the sights. We visited several festivals, bike events and POIs, which were all very interesting. Mae Kam Pong is the prettiest while Yee Peng Festival and Loy Krathong were the liveliest. These three must surely take the cake.
Two things caused me some disappointment though. First; one of the reasons I rode north was at an invitation to someone’s wedding. Of course, Loy Krathong & Yee Peng Festival were also huge bucket list items, and are part of the reason, too. Secondly, I did not get to visit Bikers Beach Cafe, though it was ready but not officially opened. As for the wedding that was called off, no explanation was forthcoming, and out of respect, no question asked. On hindsight, it is probably a joke right from the beginning, and a tasteless one at that. I even brought along money in an ang pow (or red packet) for the couple as a wedding gift and kept them nice and dry in a plastic pouch throughout. Can’t imagine why anyone would play a trick like that. Maybe I am too gullible & trusting toward friends. But, like water under the bridge, I’ll let it flow. And life goes on.
Apart from intriguing Wat Phra Tha Pha Sorn Kaew temple (Temple of The Five Buddha) and the accompanying mosaic pagoda at Petchabun, the Puek Tian Water Statue Park near Cha-am, and the bike and music festivals, all the others were new to me. I enjoyed all these places. Also appreciate the solitude when I rode solo at the initial and final part of this trip. On my own, I explored town the old-fashion way, by using single-page not-to-scale maps provided by hotels. At my own time & pace. I ate what I like(mostly street food and fruits), when I like (often) and where I like. In Prachuap, I sat on the low retaining wall along the esplanade, dinner on my lap and feet dangling over the shore of the Gulf of Thailand. Suck on a couple of beer bought from the minimart, enjoy the starry night and cool breeze, just like the locals do. And remembering those days when quaffing pints in a noisy pub or disco is a requisite after each day of riding. While I enjoyed those times, I am also contented now. Maybe its the skinny cigarette with the funny smell that someone offered me that was making me so pleased. Fuck! Must be getting old! Rambling on like a GOBB (Grumpy Old Biker Bastard). Please, somebody, tell me I am not a GOBB yet!!
While fueling at the PTT just outside Prachuap, met Ravi and two other members of the SG Chapter of Mad Dog on their Harleys. They were shooting for Krabi which was further then Surat, where I was going. At a slowdown due to road construction, they caught up, waved, and wriggled their way through the jam.
I broke journey at Surat, and at the border town Dannok. From Dannok, it was a nearly 10-hour ride to SG. Once through ICQ at Kayu Hitam, I topped up the tank at the nearest station, then again at Sg. Perak, and Ayer Keroh, and finally Gelang Patah before arriving at SG. Thankfully the weather was dry and only had a couple of snarls near KL and the Elite. Got in nice & early, in time for dinner with Little Lara.
22 days on the saddle. Should keep me sane for a while. I was supposed to stopover at Phuket to see a couple of friends but midway through the trip, I lost interest. I shall visit in April of 2024.
Dec. 4 – Southbound on Route 1 to Suphan Buri. Along the way, we would pass by Uthai Thani. There is a famous wat called Wat Tha Sung, or Crystal Sanctuary, located less then 10km off our intended route. Indie K suggested a detour to the Crystal Sanctuary for a visit. His previous attempt some years ago to locate this temple was unsuccessful. I readily agreed.
At 3pm, about two-third of the way to Suphan Buri, we made a right and follow the 3212 over the Chao Phraya and into Uthai Thani. We were close to the Crystal Santuary but along the road, there were several temples on both sides. They were all huge and occupied large spaces. I could understand why Indie K couldn’t locate the Wat Tha Sung when he last came. We were totally thrown off the scent. Every temple has a presence, and they all look special and distinct, although architecturally, they are similar. We stopped and asked for direction from some people in uniforms and was told to go forward and turn left at the ‘chet’, or 7, in Thai, which means 7-eleven. Actually, Indie K did the asking while I have a smoko. Indie K interpreted the directions to me, which was fortunate, because as we moved a short distance ahead, there was a narrow, paved alley on the left. It was just wide enough for 2 vehicles to pass each other. Narrow, as opposed to the main thoroughfare we were on, which have three lanes each way. There were many signboards in Thai which meant nothing to either of us. Just as Indie K was about to continue along the main road, I spotted the 7-eleven on the opposite side of the road. I quickly signaled Indie K and indicated to him. So, we made a left into this narrow little lane and voila! At the end of it, the Temple Complex of Wat Tha Sung.
But why is the assess to Wat Tha Sung so obscure? It is, after all, a renown temple, famous for its Crystal Sanctuary and Golden Buddha. Perhaps it is meant to be. Heaven pick those who made special efforts as in the case of Indie K. He tried once before and tries again and is rewarded. As for me, I just tag along and sometimes get lucky. LOL.
We removed our footwear before entering the temple. Indie K respectfully knelt, and I followed suit.
There is the main temple, The Crystal Sanctuary, and many other smaller ones. Some, I believe are monasteries. The Crystal Sanctuary is huge, internally one hundred metres long, with walls and ceiling proportionately sized. Dozens of cylindrical pillars stood in rows, supporting the massive roof. Each pillar is a few storeys tall and about 60cm in diameter. Amazingly, each pillar is covered from top to bottom with small diamond-shape pieces of mirror, each measuring about 5cm long. Upon a closer look, I concluded that they are individually glued to the pillars, using industrial-strength glue. Some glue seeped out between the pieces during the curing process, an indication that they were manually attached, and also because of the slight imperfection in alignment. It is mind-boggling, if you think about it. How careful and how long did it take to attach these pieces? The walls were also covered with mirrors and in between the rows of pillars, shiny, bright chandelier-like lamps hang from above providing the illumination. Long strings of clear translucent beads hung, gathered together near the base in clusters, like so many curtains. Clear marble floors and red carpet compliment the mirrors and crystals. The whole interior shimmer and dazzle. According to available literature, the body of the late monk who revamp this ancient temple lies in a glass enclosure on the left as you enter the temple, hefted 20ft off the floor, on an ornate gold altar. He is laid in his monk attire, eyes closed as if sleeping. Countless Buddha statues line the walls, some standing with hands clasped, some bowing, others in the meditation postures. It is an amazing concept requiring years of hard work and dedication to produce. Simply awesome.
I was impressed. After an hour or so, we resume our journey to Suphan Buri, bedazzled.
It’s time to move along. 3 nights in Chiangmai. We will head for Chiang Khong.
Indie K and jaywalker have decided to ride to Chiang Khong one day ahead of the rest. You know, just to break the monotony. The plan is for both of us to ride south together after Chiang Khong while the others will, most likely, head back to Chiang Mai.
My change of plan was brought about by the cancellation of a wedding that was supposed to happen on Dec. 8., in Chiangmai. That was inexplicably called off. It meant that I need not go back to Chiangmai after Chiang Khong. So, I decided to head south with Indie K instead.
Chiang Khong was the venue for the Kham Kong Run 2023, which saw participants from Thailand run across the Friendship Bridge No.4 that connects to Huay Xai, on Laos’ shore. It is an annual event. What interest us was the music festival that preceded the run on the night before. Given the Thais love of Music and the Art, and the high population of ‘farang’ residing in Thailand, there should be some good rock music. And we were not wrong. Songs from The Stones “Sticky Fingers” album, performed by a band of ‘farang’, were played to perfection. Everyone was having a good time. The venue of this concert was on the shore of the Mekong, on the Thai side. The omnipresent bazaar that accompanies any such events or festivals lined the street. We, too, had our food and drinks there, and a walkabout around the venue.
Dec.3- After 2 nights in Chiang Khong, it’s time we head south. We took some pictures at the totem-like monument on our way out of Chiang Khong. We rode at a leisurely place, relaxed and in no particular hurry, along the 1020. At about noon, we took a break at the Tarkang Coffee. Indie K and I will break from the group here and head for Uttaradit while Mr. GPS, KCK, Crack & FC point their machines toward Phayao, and then Chiangmai. In that hour at Tarkang Coffee, we chatted about the ride so far, solved half the world’s problems, and attempted to solve the other half, which is problems of our own making. Failing dismally at that, we decided to revisit this part when we meet again on the next ride.
We bade au revoir.
The ‘Riverside Resort’ at Uttaradit – Indie K and I stopped for a quick meal before our destination. We met a couple of bikers heading north. During this time, Indie K googled for a place to stay for the night. Found one which has fairly good review and decided to go for it. When we got there, we were shown the rooms, which were ok. All the rooms were at ground level. It was in a quiet location surrounded by foliage. Each unit has its own sheltered car porch, separated from each other by high walls. Very private. Once checked-in, I noticed mirrors on either side of the bed and against the headboard as well. Looking up, a huge ceiling mirror gaze upon the entire bed.
LOL. Unwittingly, we have checked ourselves into a short-time joint!
Premier Parking
Me on the ceiling
Beside the main door is a smaller door about 30x30cm, at about waist level. It allows for delivery of, eg., food & drinks from outside, without any contact with the occupant. It all clicked. A room is booked and paid on-line. A confirmation is received with the room number confirmed. The amorous couple would drive in and parked at the porch. Door is unlocked and key is in the room. Order Grab-Food if they wish. On-line payment. And after their activities, whether illicit or not, leave, without meeting anyone face to face. Unseen throughout.
Nice set-up!
However, all that matters to Indie K and I are clean sheets & towel, hot shower, safe parking for our bikes, and food & beverage within a reasonable distance. So, this worked out well for us. And cheap, too.
Mae Kam Pong is a small mountain village about 40km out of Chiangmai. Recently, some youtubers posted contents about this place, claiming it to be one of the most beautiful in Thailand. Elevation is about 1300m above MSL. With this elevation, the small road leading up to it as expected; squiggly and steep. Some caution required. But it isn’t that bad. And having said that, I did tip over while attempting a U-turn at the top of a steep incline. But no damage though, as I already mastered the skill of tipping over. Ahem. Just let the bike down as gently as possible and at the last moment, do a small roll away from the bike and stand up like a superhero. Didn’t even scratch my helmet. Nobody applauded.
Tourist4
And yes. It is indeed a quaint, unusual and beautiful place with wonderful sceneries all around. The houses, shops, and homestays are built with wood from the woods. Except for the foundation of hard concrete. At the front of the few eateries, you face the sloping streets with cute and weathered facades of small wood builds on both sides, some 2-storied, brighten by their colourful cottage-industry products. Looking away from the back, you get views of green hills and valleys below, and a small stream which would become a river further down. Everything just fit. It is a tourist magnet but the inhabitants are unlike those that make their living off tourism in big cities. You are pretty much left to your own, to browse the products, or see how they prepare their street food or take photos of what you fancy. You can sit anywhere by the narrow street and just take in the scene and enjoy the atmosphere. Nobody bothers you. It has a coin-operated petrol pump at the start of the street. It runs empty sometimes. Really, simply, beautiful.
A small place, it is, but a big impression, it leaves.
About a third of the way down from Mae Kam Pong, we side-tracked and visited a wat situated at the cul-de-sac. Actually, it looks more like a Taoist or Hindu temple, because among the Buddha statues, there were also figures of deities. Also very prominent was the sculpture of a huge 9-headed dragon with its elongated body twisting gracefully to the right and doubling back to the left, the tail curling and reaching skywards. Nestle within the folds of the dragon sat a deity. The dragon’s 9 heads are in a formation that resembles the hood of a cobra, hovering over the deity protectively. Reminds me of Hinduism. There is another smaller version of the dragon with fewer heads and a different deity standing next to it. There were other deities as well, and many big Buddha statues. The dragons were painted gold and other bright colours. The deities were brightly painted too. And the stream that flows from Mae Kam Pong, cool & clear, only ankle deep, has become much wider now as it runs by this temple. Pretty stunning.
Let’s head back. We still got some tricky downhill corners to negotiate. Our Brazilian Bro (or FC) will be hosting a BBQ dinner for us tonight.
Feels good to be back on the saddle. On 21/11/23, I rode solo from SG to Ayutthaya. It was just under 2000km in total. And had 3 stopovers at HDY, Surat, Prachuap and arriving at Ayutthaya on fourth day. The next 2 legs were under 300km each, and today’s ride to Chiangmai would be about 330km. Six of us now: Mr. GPS, KCK, Crack, Indie K, Flying Chicken (FC), and jaywheeler. And the date is 28/11/23.
The roads in this region are pretty flat. Occasionally, there are some big sweeping bends. A couple of road works at some stretches did not bother us much. The asphalt is generally well-maintained and good. But it lacks the excitement and challenge of what Nan, a couple of hundred km north, provides. Still, it’s good to just ride & be free. Sometimes we detour to POIs. And usually stop for lunches at some hidden restaurants that offer authentic and delicious Northern Thai food. There were coffee breaks, too. It is really quite relaxing. No pressure.
Our ride to Chiangmai was smooth. Our speed varies according to road conditions (and mood). Lunch at the Teak Wood Café was excellent. Thai food is not always about thomyam. We didn’t eat at the café though we had coffee after lunch here. It was the restaurant in the main building that serve the food. I mention the Café because I don’t know what the restaurant was called in Thai.
We hit Chiangmai maybe about 3pm. Critically examined the abodes that Mr. GPS has put us in for the next 3 days. It’s sort of an old typical wooden house with a compound and a little fish pond, situated on the outskirts of Chiangmai. Clean bedsheets, hot shower, and safe parking. We gave our collective nod.
Yee Peng Festival, or Sky Lantern Festival is celebrated in North Thailand, and in particular, Chiangmai. People flock along the banks of the Ping River, just beside the Khua Lek Bridge. The eastern bank was lined with luxury hotels that have their exclusive riverfront where they set up dining for their guests. On the west bank, it is very public and that’s where most of the action happen. Crackers, shooting stars (see vid)hand-held rockets, fireworks, and some really explosive monsters were fired from here. We were right in the mix. Krathong were also released onto the river, but the main draw were the sky lanterns. The lanterns are released into the night sky as and when, powered by a big wad of wax which provides heat for the lift. You have to hold the lantern upright while the burning wax heat up the air inside. And after a while, you launch it. Just let it float. Some got caught in the branches of the tree by the river and burn out. Indie K had the best launch. His lantern skimmed over the river inches above the water for an awfully long time and then dramatically shot up and away to joined the hundreds already airborne. KCK bought fireworks and was using the floating lanterns as targets. See vid. He couldn’t hit any, despite his 8-shot cannon! Mr. GPS or someone got us a table in a restaurant. The table was by the river, and we could see everything happening. It was great. He even befriended 3 French tourists (female) who begged to join our table as the place was chock-a-block.
Yee Peng and Loy Krathong are 2 different festivals that often coincide annually. It’s based on the full moon and their calendar. Silly me always thought they were the same thing until now. I learn something already. Also, that the Thais love and enjoy their festivals.
The revelry went on late into the night. We finally quit, leaving the festival and bringing with us memory of this extraordinary experience.
Tomorrow, Mae Kam Pong.
Jaywalker, Ping River near Khua Lek Bridge, Chiangmai, 28 Nov. ’23.
There will be a street parade. The starting point is a short distance from the park. The parade will enter the park through the main gate. We got ready and rode to the Sukhotai Historical Park at about 3pm. Put our bikes near Café Amazon and park our butts in there.
Punctually at 4pm, the sound of a marching band approaches. Our window seat at the café allows us perfect vantage. Not satisfied with that, KCK and I went out on the street so that we can get a few close-up shots. Weather was good and there were not many people. Still early. The band led a colourful entourage of about 20 different troupes into the Park through the gate about 30m away. The street was narrow and there were no barriers to separate the parade from the spectators. You could easily walk in the parade among the performers. The costumes they wore and the routines performed were pure Thai style. Very traditional. There were elephants and princesses & fire-breathers too. The elephants left huge chunks of turd here and there along the route. Maybe that’s why they were strategically placed near the end of the parade. As we followed the parade to the Gate, another procession joined in from a different direction. This procession was huge! It was standing-by waiting for the lead group. There must be close to a hundred troupes in all involving a couple thousand people! They represent the many facets of the Thais, from agriculture, spiritual beliefs, daily life, cock-fighting, to the historical, entertainment, and their uniqueness in today’s world. As it was barrier-free, locals and tourists alike mingle within the procession, but respectfully so. The parade paused occasionally for many of the troupes to perform their routines at the open space in front of the Gate. The colours and costumes were a sight to behold, and the accompanying Traditional Thai melody filled the air. It’s a photography-buff’s dream. We stood around the same spot for nearly two hours as the parade passed us. It was a grand parade. By the people, for the people. The spectators were also much involved because no barriers or police prevented anyone from dancing or interacting with the performers if they so wish.
In the meantime, Indie K is meeting two Singaporeans who just arrived at Sukhotai without pre-booking their accommodation. They couldn’t get any and, in the end, I believe they had to ride to stay at Phitsanulok, about 100km ESE from here.
As night fell and the temperature cooled, more and more revellers appeared. It was more crowded then the night before. The spotlights came on, roaming the night sky while on the ground, stalls’ lightings, flaming torches, bright krathongs and lanterns provided the ambience to match the merry mood of the people. Across the squarish pond, the live show was being played out. It was a ticketed event. We could see the glow of the lighting effects from where we stood, hear the clamouring, the fireworks and the occasional trumpeting of the elephants. We all had our hand at firing up the krathongs. Many of the krathongs got gobbled up by the big fish (see vid) in the pool within seconds of leaving the owners’ hands at the platforms. Hahaha.
We roamed the Park as the night wore on. Until we got hungry and fed ourselves. Thoroughly satisfied, we rode back to the hotel. We chilled at the hotel lobby and had a couple. Three Japanese dudes came in late to check-in. And Indie K exhibited proficiency in Japanese and assisted them somewhat till the manager came. I retired soon after while Mr. GPS went about town charting/updating his internal map, as is his habit wherever he went.
Loy Krathong 2566. It was a good day. Dream realised.
2 wheels and an engine 