(7) Chiang Saen to Mae Salong

Nov 28 2022

As usual, we leave the hotel after breakfast. Today’s ride is only about 130km. But there is a twist to it. The ride include a couple of interesting POI – Khun Sa Old Camp and the Akha Village. Khun Sa is or was the Opium King. This location in the jungle is perhaps where he based his army. The Akha is a hill tribe inhabiting the borders of Myanmar and Thailand. They also find employment in the towns of the northern provinces of Thailand.

We first visited the Golden Triangle Park. The name conjures images of gun-toting militia carrying sacks of contraband in the street. But it is actually a tourist attraction now. Souvenir stalls and eateries line the edge of the park. And a nice new monument stood as a gateway to this iconic area. It has changed since I last visited 20 years ago. Very touristy now.

We then rode to Mae Sai, which is supposed to be the northern-most point of Thailand. Tham Luang Cave, where the Thai schoolboys and their coach were trapped and then rescued, was on the same route to Mae Sai. The SAR operation gain worldwide attention at that time. One diver died during the rescue operation. Another diver died a year later due to infection. We were denied entry at the gate to Tham Luang Cave because of flooding and unsafe conditions. So we continued to Mae Sai.

From Mae Sai, KM7, as usual, led the way forward to the Akha Village. And as usual, he took the most difficult route he can find. A bit of decent pavement, make a right into a village, and then we are facing an uphill mountain road. And things get interesting. 

The concrete path twist and turn for several kilometres and we came to a checkpoint. It was manned by soldiers in their fatigues, helmeted, armed, and masked, fingers on the safety catches. However, they were civil enough and after some questioning, they proceed to take individual photo of each of us. We have to hold our passports with the details page open, in front of our chest facing the camera. Like a police mug shot. Photos of our bikes in a group were taken too. With a smile and a nod, they let us proceed. They are probably betting among themselves on how many of us would return unscathed.

We made slow progress as we continue. By now, having been to Phu Thap Boek for our christening into border chasing and the subsequent dose of daily mountain roads, we were no longer as terrified, having adapted to this sort of terrain. That does not mean we are expert. Far from it. We are now just more cautious.

And then a second checkpoint. We went through a similar process as in the first checkpoint. I caught a glimpse of some radio equipment in a camouflage shelter. I guess cell phone signals may be sporadic in these locations, being in the jungle surrounded by trees and the mountains.

And then again, a 3rd checkpoint. Then the 4th. The same process. Each time, the soldiers’ grin became wider. Of course all the checkpoints are in constant radio contact with each other. I think they know that result of their bets would be soon. After the 4th stop, the path veered right and downwards. No more path. It’s just a narrow track with a deep rut in the centre. Loose sand & stones. KM7 went first. So did the other 500X and Cookie Monster. I followed. Slithering on the loose sand and gravel and trying hard to avoid getting my wheels trapped in the deep rut in the middle. Hardly 20m down, the track ended. Trees and shrubs surrounded us. No brainer here. U-turn only option. Bongee Wongee who so far was game enough to follow knew better. He stayed at the top. The F800 and I was assisted by Insane Rider and Cookie Monster in making the turnaround. And backtrack to the top. A little scary. We all made it without incident. But it came close.

When we were on safer ground, I could see the cogs turning in KM7’s head. Should we proceed and hunt for Khun Sa’s Camp? We backtracked to the 4^th checkpoint and took the other path at the fork. Anyway, Khun Sa’s is in that direction. The path became tighter & tighter. And finally, reluctantly, we took a left at another fork and headed for the 1149, a patchy and rough road that runs along the border. Well, at least it will definitely take us to Mae Salong.

Wonder who won the bet at the checkpoints.

Back on the road. Lunch near the hotel, at a Chinese Restaurant serving authentic Yunnan food. (We cleared lunch pretty quickly.) Mae Salong is populated by Chinese who came from Yunnan generations ago. There are a few Chinese settlements in the north. The Mandarin they spoke are similar to ours SG and MY.

Carlos visited us at the hotel. He rode same path we did, U-turn at the same place, on his GS. KM7 sent him the map the day before. Damn nice of him to come see us if only for just half an hour. He has to leave soon as it gets dark in the mountain very quickly. He has a 250km ride back to his hotel. It’s a pity he couldn’t join us for dinner cos we ordered a big special spread to feast on. A house specialty served in a Twin-Dragon Hot Pot filled with delicious herbal soup. Highly nutritious!

Yin Yang Phoenix Claw in Ginseng Broth served in Twin Dragon Hot Pot

Another day, another mountain, another checkpoint. We are closing in on KM7’s target of visiting all the checkpoints in Northern Thai Borders now, including those in the mountains and reserves. KM7 must be as happy as a dog with 2 cock!

 Jaywalker, with input from everybody in the ride.-Dec. 2022