2 wheels and an engine

Loy Krathong 2566

THE EVE

The year is 2023. I have been wanting to partake in this festival for ages. Having seen photos & videos of this spectacular event and I was determined to come see for myself. Krathong is a circular floating vessel with a small candle atop, hand-made from banana leaves or other organic stuff, typically palm-size or a little larger. It has its origin in Sukhothai, the ancient Thai capital or so I was told. It’s a no-brainer that If I want to see the festival, Sukhothai would be the place to be. A year or two ago, I mooted the idea of visiting this festival and found that hotel rates during Loy Krathong more then doubled. Still, a rough plan was made and has now come to fruition.

WHY DOES IT ALWAYS HAPPEN TO ME?

In 2022, while riding along the AYE (in SG) towards Tuas Checkpoint on a similar trip, the pouch which was strapped to the handlebar flew off the bike. It contained my passport and cell phone. I had to make a U-turn further down to come back to retrieved them. And luckily, everything was intact as there was little traffic on the expressway at 1am.

This year, I go one better. As usual at SG’s ICQ automatic clearance, I slotted in my passport, proceeded when the 1^st barrier open and placed both thumbs on the scanner at the next station. Nothing happened. I was trying to figure what’s wrong when a policeman appeared. He asked for my passport which I duly handed over and manually open the 2^nd barrier for me to passed. He pointed to the office block ahead and told me to report there. No problem. Computer glitches happen all the time. I proceeded, went passed the block, rounded the corner and parked in a lot. In the meantime, the policeman was blowing his whistle which I couldn’t hear as I rounded the building and disappeared from his sight. Unbeknownst to me, he also triggered the ALARM BUTTON. I parked, and sauntered towards the office while he hastily came toward me. “Why you didn’t park here?” he queried. Obviously, I missed the 3 little parking lots right in front of the office door. As he led me into the office, I heard a click as he locked the door after him. And as I stood there, 12 police uniforms appeared and surrounded me. They were helmeted, with bullet-proof vests, gas masks hanging from the waists and semi-auto rifles at ‘Port Arms’. And I was alone. My jaw hit the floor. What have I done now? The questioning began. Why didn’t I stop at the front of the office? Who are you travelling with? Who are you meeting? Where? What are you carrying in your bike? And so on and so on. By this time, I understood the situation and was seeing the funny side of it. I cheekily asked for a selfie with them and was of course denied. I secretly took it anyway plus a few second vid clip. All the time, the lady at the computer was busy retrieving my data, no doubt, and the man in charge, a young man in civvies was viewing footage from the CCTV, for sure, while on the phone with his HQ, giving an assessment of the situation. I was the centre of attention and I asked to go to the toilet. Didn’t really need to but do it just for fun. I was accompanied. And finally, after about an hour, they let me off. But not after deleting the photos and vid I took and a quick look into the panniers and luggage on my bike. So, there you go. An apt beginning of another episode in my life of misadventures.

A few days laterrrrr…

Ayutthaya. To meet up with Mr. Human GPS, Crack, and KCK (KanChiongKuai, or the overly animated and ever enthusiastic). I slotted in behind their three parked CB500s. Mr. GPS met me at the lobby of the Grand Phranakhon and we went for a bite and an update on the plan for the following days.

From Ayutthaya, the four of us rode up to Petchabun. Indie K (not a pop group), who also rides a CB500 will joins us at Petchabun. Indie K, so-called because he ‘flees’ to Thailand from SG every so often, collect his bike from where it was last stored, and ride solo around N. Thailand, independently. No particular destinations or routes to adhere to. He speaks quite a fair bit of Thai. This time, he will join us on Nov.25 to ride together. That makes 5 of us.

In the evening at Petchabun, we made a trip to Khao Kho in the mountains to visit Wat Prathat Phasornkaew. It’s about 1,000m above MSL. As dusk fell, we made our down the mountains into town to have a look see at the BMW Motorrad Event. A thing that I notice at this event is that the bikers left their helmets on their bikes, unsecured. Shows the trust among the bikers here. And in many parts of Thailand too.

26 Nov. ’23 – Right. We are heading to Sukhothai to meet up with our Brazilian Bro, The Flying Chicken. But chicken he surely ain’t. He once iron-butted from SG to Phuket solo. And that wasn’t not the only instance. This time, he rode from Chiang Mai, about 300km from Sukhotai on his new Rally 300 CRF. FC has settled in Thailand with his lovely wife and his playful dog. They live in a huge bungalow not too far from Thapae Gate. Even got a room for his Rally300. He has divested himself of his Triple Black, Duc and a Harley, I think, in SG. Last we met was a year ago at Mae Salong. Really look forward to seeing him again.

On the way back to the hotel, we stopped at a small village celebrating Loy Krathong with a beauty pageant surrounded by a night bazaar. It wasn’t a huge crowd but those present were enjoying the festivities. Simple, yet joyous.

https://youtube.com/shorts/sfzZeibUqMI Ms. Loy Krathong 2023

We arrived at the hotel at Sukhotai around lunch at about the same time with FC. The six of us had lunch at Na Kothai, a restaurant not far from the hotel. Food was great and put us all in a cheerful mood as we catch-up with each other. Loy Krathong is here and we are at its birthplace. We are all excited. I am on the verge of realising my dream of many years.

As dusk near, traffic along the street where our hotel stood started to build up. The street led directly to Sukhotai Historical Park, where the main celebration was to be held. Its only about 2.5km from where we were. We made our way there in a couple of tuk tuk. Admission to the park was free for the day but you have to get a ticket if you want to watch the live performance depicting some historical battle amid the ruins of ancient wat and stupas. The performers were in period costumes and there was a herd of elephants as well. And of course, there will be flashes & fireworks, thunder & smoke. At the main gate, a cacophony of noises invaded our ears, composing of engines and horns, police whistles, human noises, traditional Thai music, fireworks ,and several versions of the famous “Loy Krathong” song from blaring speakers from the stalls. There were perhaps a hundred or more stalls set up within the park, selling food and drinks, krathong, souveniours, fashion, tees, and everything else. Its more then I can describe. The stalls were positioned around squarish ponds of water, which were constructed during ancient times. LEDs of every hue & colour from the stalls and those strategically placed by the Park illuminated the entire area of about 300 x 300m square. I am just guessing. It is very possibly larger. However, the actual size of the entire park is over 70sq.km. and is a UNESCO Heritage Site. We are just on a part of it, albeit a popular and easily accessible part. It is so amazing that the authority allows people to move about so freely among these historical monuments. Beautiful and big hybrid lanterns on display have electrified moving parts and figurines and oil and candles to top it off. Pretty Krathong floated gently in the ponds, pushed by the breeze, carrying away what vexations that one may have. And in the midst of all that, I needed to pee. Couldn’t find a toilet for the longest time. Found one just in time before I peed myself.

The night ended with some food and beer at a small restaurant outside, near the main gate. The street is less busy now and a short tuk tuk ride got us back to our hotel.

Tomorrow is the Big Day.

jaywalker, at Sukhotai on 26 Nov. ’23

(1) 11NAN22-How it began

11 (is November) NAN (is pronounce as ‘none’, a Northern province in Thailand), and 22 is, well, year 2022. Nan shares its border with Laos, to the North. It is very mountainous and has several National Parks. Friends who visited Nan was full of praise for its wonderful motorcycling roads and beautiful sceneries through the mountains. It has been my dream for some years now, of riding to Nan.

Earlier this year, while fiddling with my Nav5, the usual prompt; “Where To”, appeared on the display at start-up. Immediately, Nan sprang into my mind. And only a short time ago, KM7 also asked me the same question when chatting about our next motorcycle trip.

And the seed was sown……

When Cookie Monster got wind of it, he suggested visiting Maehongson as he has never been there. And his buddy Insane Rider wanted a mountain ride. So Phu Tak Boek, elevation 1768m above MSL, in Phetchabun, also came into the picture, together with Maehongson. KM7, who has lived in Thailand, speaks the language like a local, and knew Thailand like the back of his pudgy hands concluded that to accommodate us The Three Stooges, a multi-mountain ride is the way to go. Killing many birds with one stone, says he. The plan grew and KM7 got ambitious. I mean Really Ambitious! Why not fulfil his own dream of traversing the border roads of Thailand, Laos, and Myanmar on these mountains instead of the usual highways. That would mean plenty of mountain roads, B roads, some tracks and highways only when unavoidable. Preposterous!

Thus 11NAN22, was conceived.

It would mean 22days on the road, if you start and end at SG. Accommodations would be at a different location each night. It works out to be about 280km per day of riding when in the mountains. The longest day being 411km and shortest 108km. The sections northbound and southbound to and from Ayutthaya don’t count as they are flat.

KM7 started planning around July. By October, the plan was in its final stage. He worked hard planning the route and the accommodations. None of us were able to offer any meaningful input as we cannot match his local knowledge of this Land of Smiles. But I did kept abreast of the plan as it took form, offering useless suggestions here and there, asking for Google Maps of destinations and converting the files for input into Garmin devices. Generally, I was just a pain in the butt.

19 November 2022:- The journey begins………

‘Follow’ if you think it’s worth your time. I am still trying to put things together and will be posting snippets of this awesome journey every now & then.

Chill.

Jaywalker, 16 Dec 2022

(2) NAN- but first, Ayutthaya

Now where do I begin? The first four days? Yah. SG to HDY to Surat to Hua Hin to Ayutthaya. In this time, I managed to lose the pouch which was strapped to my handle bar. It contain my passport and phone. Fortunate to retrieved them from the expressway. And this is while still in SG. Smooth ride along NSE to arrive in Sadao, only to be held up at Thai Custom for failing to submit vehicle documentation while exiting Thailand in 2019. Fine Baht1000. Met up with KM7 and his Thai friend for a meal in Hatyai. Thereafter, went to a vegie café and waited for The Pharmacist, who arrived from Phuket with Travelling Bong strap to his Bonny T100.

Next day, to Surat to meet up with Kim, who was southbound for home. Always nice to meet a friend, especially when abroad.

This is Kim-solo riding in Thailand

The following morning, Nov. 21, we went to the Singkhorn Border Crossing. It is the southernmost land crossing between Thailand & Myanmar. Only Thais and Burmese are allow to cross-border and trade. Foreigners are barred. The trade market is about 100m from the crossing.

A quick meal at the seaside just before Hua Hin. Which was also where I left my phone. And which KM7 retrieve for me the next day. Phew! Thanks kM7!

At Hua Hin, the punctured rear of the Goldwing was fixed at a workshop while we sat and waited outside a shop nearby.

Plenty of interesting places today. We head for Ayutthaya tomorrow.

Jaywalker, with photos and ideas from everyone here, on 23 Nov. 2022

(3) NAN-Ascending Phu Thap Boek

We now have KM7, Cookie Monster, Insane Rider, Jaywalker, Bongee Wongee, and Orh Cheow with Lady P.Lien. 6 motorcycles. With KM7 leading, we head for Phu Thap Boek, our first mountain.

The sky was overcast and you could feel the cold and smell the approaching rain. To be honest, not much attention was paid to the weather because we were more focus on the road. It is not an easy ascent to Phu Thap Boek. Not only was it twisty and squiggly, wet patches and switchbacks demand our undivided attention. Plus the condition of the asphalt wasn’t that great. Near a section where the road passed through a wider and flatter hillside, we stopped by a cafe for a break. The hotel we were heading for wasn’t that far off. We sniffed around a bit, and then headed for the hotel.

There are several hotels here at the summit, each offering slightly different views but all of them great. Built on the slopes, the accommodations stand on metal stilts of differing length to provide a stable and level platform to be built upon. Right now, we just want to get out of our damp gears and get into something warm, as temperature was about 15°C. (I think.) But it was cold and with the fog rolling in, about to get colder as night falls. At 1768m above MSL and at this latitude, it does get cold. To counter that, we had 3 charcoal stoves heating up 3 sets of Mookata, out in the open veranda. As night falls, we gathered around the stoves and dig into a variety of meat, vegies, and what-have-you. We were wrap up to keep warm but I cheated. I had a tee on plus my leathers with its thermal attach and hiding underneath. Kept me real nice and comfy out in the open. Late on, the fog lifted and we were presented a splendid view of the small town far below, its tiny twinkling lights in a sea of darkness. We could see the streetlamps of the road on the flat land from whence we came, like an umbilical meandering to and over the distant horizon. Magical.

Phu Thap Boek, It has been a tough day. Wet and slippery and cold. But we are glad we came.

Jaywalker, with photos and ideas from everyone here, on 23 Nov. 2022

(4) NAN-The Approach (Nov25)

We have done Phu Tub Boek and also spend another night at Khao Kho (where a huge fat lizard was waiting to pounce on us). We are now leaving Phetchabun and heading for Nan. Took Route 12, which is a wide mountain road in surprisingly good condition. The road dip and rise, following the contour of the slopes, and picturesque sceneries appear before us every so often, as we emerge from one corner after the other. We left Route 12 and headed for Sirikit Dam on the Nan River for lunch. The river banks are adorn with beautiful shrubs and flowers guarded by dense green forest in the background. So far, it was a pretty good morning ride at a comfortable pace. If I remember correctly, we had Chicken Rice for lunch. And coffee. We are now in Uttaradit, having cut across Phitsanulok.

KM7 was hiding surprise a for us. After lunch, he took us on a narrow, broken road that led to a clearing by the river where there was a sort of a floating platform. We are going on a boat ride, he said. And lo & behold, a ferry appeared, approaching from the opposite bank a mile or two away. Ha! Fancy riding a boat high up in the mountains. Unexpected. A couple of cars and passenger vans also turn up after us. Apparently, commuters around here prefer to use the excellent mountain roads to get to Nan Town as the ferry would take longer, even though the distance is shorter. Which explain why there are no concrete structures at the boarding point as it is not often used. We also met a Irish guy on a Hunter (Honda). Jonny comes to Thailand twice a year, pick up his bike which he stored in BKK, then travel solo around Thailand. His mission is to recce the area and bring his ‘kakis’ over from Ireland once it’s accomplished. Wow. That’s life! Pretty awesome.

Once we disembarked, we picked up pace and head for town so that we can see a bit of Nan before dusk. We made it to Nan the Town at a decent hour, secured our machines and got ready for dinner. The street where we stayed was next to the main Wat of the town. And wherever there is a temple, there will surely be street food and souvenir and haberdashery stalls in the vicinity. A Walking Street, you might call it. Each of us bought a different food and throw them on the table and Presto! We have a feast! Only a low table on a big mat or rug is provided and scores of these setups filled the square. We sat on the mat and devour our food. And like everybody, cleared the table when we were done. We are going local here.

I hope the weather stays like this tomorrow for our second leg in Nan.

Please ‘Share’ or ‘Follow’ if you like what you see. Cheers.

Jaywalker, 18 Dec. 2022

(5) NAN – “3-Shape Curves” and Huaykon Checkpoint

The second leg of Nan Ride will ultimately bring us to Huaykon Border Post between Thailand & Laos via some POI. We are still in the Nan Mountains. We checked-out early and basically, just headed in a north-easterly direction. We stopped at the Salt Well in Bo Kleua but to get there, we have to get on the 1081 to see and ride the marvellous ‘3-shape Curves’. 1081 is a well-maintain mountain road. The builder of this road must really love motoring. The cambers are all in the right places and the numerous curves on this route are a joy to lean into. Best to ride at your own pace & ability, and allow the sceneries and the atmosphere to stimulate your senses. At the famous ‘3-shape Curves’, we stopped to take in the sight. Many vehicles also stop at this particular spot, which is on a rise and has a wide and open area beside the road. The shape of the figure ‘3’ can be clearly seen ahead.

Somewhere along the route, we also went past Phu Kha 1715 Viewpoint but didn’t stop because the blanket of cloud for which it is reputed for has dissipated. And also this is where chain of KM7’s CB500X came off. Insane rider somehow managed to get it back on to continue with the ride. Well done Insane Rider!

We moved on. Next; the Salt Well at Bo Kleua. To be honest, I am not into salt wells at all. But it’s more interesting to take a break here then at a petrol station. So, time to play tourist.

From the Salt Well, we head to Pua, where we check-in and get lunch. We still have enough daylight to make a trip to the Laos Border and back. The Huaykon Border Post is slightly less then a hundred km from where we were staying. Traffic was sparse and we made good time. It is interesting that within such short distance, the pace of life is dramatically different. I suppose life at all northern border towns or settlements are quite similarly simple. Not particularly busy in this case. People from both sides mingle and trade and perhaps intermarried. It’s actually difficult to tell whether a person is Thai or Laotian. Very similar in looks and stature. Some say I fit in perfectly 🙂

Barriers, and Border Patrol manned the boundary checkpoint. No access beyond the demarcated line. KM7 fake ignorance and rode right up to the line, and the uniforms jumped on him. But they allowed him to move forward to make a U-turn. So, technically, he visited Laos. I’ll challenge him to do the same at the 38^th Parallel.

Well, still pretty early. Slow cruise back to Pua for a bath and dinner. Our hotel is in the fields. It is like a kampong, with little huts on stilts situated on the edge of a field. I think it’s a flower field which has just been harvested. I am not sure but it is clean, dry and tidy. Each individual hut has a verandah, a bedroom and a bathroom, fully fitted with air-con, hot water and a retro-style bath tub next to low wooden window. So you look out over the field and the distant mountains through the open windows while soaking in the bath tub, as a brood of chicken scurried about in the open field below. Simple. Chill. The hut is made of mostly organic materials. Wood and bamboo skins and the bamboo itself. Wait till you see the simple covered-parking lots.

Tomorrow, 27Nov. 2022, to Chiang Saen.

Jaywalker, 22/12/22

(6) NAN-Pua to Chiang Saen

By the end of this day, 27 Nov. 22, we would have departed the Magical Realm of Nan, and land at Chiang Saen.

We set out at around 8 or 9am and head west towards Magic Mountain. Stopped for coffee at Route1148 Café. It offers a good view of the surrounding hills. The dark menacing weather of days past is replaced by blue sky and pretty, billowy white clouds. We are in Phayao now. Heading north, we then cut across Phu Sang National Park and into Phu Chi Fa Forest Park. The Thai/Laos borderline actually runs across part of Phu Chi Fa and from the viewpoint at the top, you will be looking at Laos to the east. A splendid landscape, no doubt, but hardly passable. Ideal home for guerrillas or cross-border smuggling. And you are not going to get a massage for the next 100km in that direction.

The Cafe
Phu Chi Fa Forest Park

We are back on the saddle riding towards Chiang Saen, about 100km away. I never tire of this scenery and landscape. This road is as slow or as quick as you want it to be.

Ever since Phu Thap Boek, access to nearly every hotel we check into was a challenge apart. The toughest (for me) was at Phu Thap Boek. Leading to the hotel was a narrow and uneven earth track, and slippery with a 20° incline. I nearly tipped over the edge while riding up, which would see bike and me rolling for at least 10 feet down the side. But tonight, we actually park on concrete ground just off the street, in front of the hotel. A welcome change. Don’t get me wrong. I am not whinging. If you want to ride in the mountain, you have to accept what it gives.

Dinner-Along the banks of the Mekong, facing Van Pak Len, Laos. On the opposite bank, the bright and glitzy casinos and hotels glow in the night enticingly. We are only 1 or 2km apart. Dinner was good; a mixture of meat, greens and fish. River catches, when done right, taste as good as seafood.

Back at the hotel, we sat at the patio, smoking 😉 and enjoying the cool night and the ambience along the river bank. Occasionally, the booming music from Laos drifted across, carried by the breeze, muted by the river. Good Night.

Jaywalker, 22 Dec. 2022

(7) Chiang Saen to Mae Salong

Nov 28 2022

As usual, we leave the hotel after breakfast. Today’s ride is only about 130km. But there is a twist to it. The ride include a couple of interesting POI – Khun Sa Old Camp and the Akha Village. Khun Sa is or was the Opium King. This location in the jungle is perhaps where he based his army. The Akha is a hill tribe inhabiting the borders of Myanmar and Thailand. They also find employment in the towns of the northern provinces of Thailand.

We first visited the Golden Triangle Park. The name conjures images of gun-toting militia carrying sacks of contraband in the street. But it is actually a tourist attraction now. Souvenir stalls and eateries line the edge of the park. And a nice new monument stood as a gateway to this iconic area. It has changed since I last visited 20 years ago. Very touristy now.

We then rode to Mae Sai, which is supposed to be the northern-most point of Thailand. Tham Luang Cave, where the Thai schoolboys and their coach were trapped and then rescued, was on the same route to Mae Sai. The SAR operation gain worldwide attention at that time. One diver died during the rescue operation. Another diver died a year later due to infection. We were denied entry at the gate to Tham Luang Cave because of flooding and unsafe conditions. So we continued to Mae Sai.

From Mae Sai, KM7, as usual, led the way forward to the Akha Village. And as usual, he took the most difficult route he can find. A bit of decent pavement, make a right into a village, and then we are facing an uphill mountain road. And things get interesting.

The concrete path twist and turn for several kilometres and we came to a checkpoint. It was manned by soldiers in their fatigues, helmeted, armed, and masked, fingers on the safety catches. However, they were civil enough and after some questioning, they proceed to take individual photo of each of us. We have to hold our passports with the details page open, in front of our chest facing the camera. Like a police mug shot. Photos of our bikes in a group were taken too. With a smile and a nod, they let us proceed. They are probably betting among themselves on how many of us would return unscathed.

We made slow progress as we continue. By now, having been to Phu Thap Boek for our christening into border chasing and the subsequent dose of daily mountain roads, we were no longer as terrified, having adapted to this sort of terrain. That does not mean we are expert. Far from it. We are now just more cautious.

And then a second checkpoint. We went through a similar process as in the first checkpoint. I caught a glimpse of some radio equipment in a camouflage shelter. I guess cell phone signals may be sporadic in these locations, being in the jungle surrounded by trees and the mountains.

And then again, a 3rd checkpoint. Then the 4th. The same process. Each time, the soldiers’ grin became wider. Of course all the checkpoints are in constant radio contact with each other. I think they know that result of their bets would be soon. After the 4th stop, the path veered right and downwards. No more path. It’s just a narrow track with a deep rut in the centre. Loose sand & stones. KM7 went first. So did the other 500X and Cookie Monster. I followed. Slithering on the loose sand and gravel and trying hard to avoid getting my wheels trapped in the deep rut in the middle. Hardly 20m down, the track ended. Trees and shrubs surrounded us. No brainer here. U-turn only option. Bongee Wongee who so far was game enough to follow knew better. He stayed at the top. The F800 and I was assisted by Insane Rider and Cookie Monster in making the turnaround. And backtrack to the top. A little scary. We all made it without incident. But it came close.

When we were on safer ground, I could see the cogs turning in KM7’s head. Should we proceed and hunt for Khun Sa’s Camp? We backtracked to the 4^th checkpoint and took the other path at the fork. Anyway, Khun Sa’s is in that direction. The path became tighter & tighter. And finally, reluctantly, we took a left at another fork and headed for the 1149, a patchy and rough road that runs along the border. Well, at least it will definitely take us to Mae Salong.

Wonder who won the bet at the checkpoints.

Back on the road. Lunch near the hotel, at a Chinese Restaurant serving authentic Yunnan food. (We cleared lunch pretty quickly.) Mae Salong is populated by Chinese who came from Yunnan generations ago. There are a few Chinese settlements in the north. The Mandarin they spoke are similar to ours SG and MY.

Carlos visited us at the hotel. He rode same path we did, U-turn at the same place, on his GS. KM7 sent him the map the day before. Damn nice of him to come see us if only for just half an hour. He has to leave soon as it gets dark in the mountain very quickly. He has a 250km ride back to his hotel. It’s a pity he couldn’t join us for dinner cos we ordered a big special spread to feast on. A house specialty served in a Twin-Dragon Hot Pot filled with delicious herbal soup. Highly nutritious!

Yin Yang Phoenix Claw in Ginseng Broth served in Twin Dragon Hot Pot

Mae Salong – Day & Night

Another day, another mountain, another checkpoint. We are closing in on KM7’s target of visiting all the checkpoints in Northern Thai Borders now, including those in the mountains and reserves. KM7 must be as happy as a dog with 2 cock!

Jaywalker, with input from everybody in the ride.-Dec. 2022

(8) Mae Salong, road block, then Chiang Dao

Left Mae Salong at the usual time. We are heading for Chiang Dao.

The first part of the morning saw us hugging the border between Myanmar and Thailand. We have transited from Chiang Rai into Chiang Mai, passing Mae Ai, then Fang. We rode along the northern edge of Doi Pha Hom Pok National Park, along the Myanmar Border. Pretty sure we encroached on Myanmar soil along this route at times. Around the base & mid-level Doi Ang Kang, KM7’s attempts to locate the access to the view point ran into dead ends. With about 20km before our destination, KM7 made a last ditch effort to connect to the Myanmar border via Chiang Dao National Park, as this vast area of reserve is called. We turn right and got off 107, and head north. It was the usual narrow road around the foothill surrounded by green fields. Barely 7km into this track, we came to a police barrier. The Ban Nong Khaem Border Patrol Police were on duty and we were told to turn back any as further north is Myanmar’s territory. Well not really. I believe they were conducting an operation in this area. So we backtracked to 107. Beaten. Have to call it a day and head for Chiang Dao Good View. (see video). https://youtube.com/shorts/Cc1ueq2EVVM

The welcome drink at the lobby of hotel was Cannabis Water. Contained in a 10l glass jar, with some glasses in a tray, upon a small table at the entrance of the lobby. Experiment on cannabis consumption by Western Sciences showed that it can calm the tremor in Parkinson’s Disease patients, enough to enable him to feed himself and drink from a glass without spilling. Maybe I should drink some so that I don’t shiver & shake when I meet those steep & tricky corners in the mountains.

Most remarkable during our stay here was a chance meeting with a Caucasian on a Royal Enfield Himalayan. We saw him during dinner at the restaurant. (You know, bikers will notice other bikers.) After dinner, while hanging out and chilling in the patio of one of our rooms, he passed by and we exchange greetings. He came back later and approached us while smoking a joint. He offered us the joint but we politely declined. But we chatted for a while and he went back to his room. But then he came back and this time, he dropped us 2 fistfuls of hemp. This one is a local breed, he said, indicating to the green stuff on his left and this is a hybrid, the one on the right. Just mix with hot water and drink it like tea. It’s got medicinal properties, he went on to say. Not wanting to be rude, we accepted his gift. He bade us goodnight.

Can you imagine a total stranger coming to you and just give you stuff like that? Do you think we drink it? Or what? Why did he approached us? What made him offered us the joint? What were we doing? What actually went on? Why did he returned with the medicine? What happened in the end? Did the hemp went up in smoke? Stretch your imagination a little. Treat this like an interactive narrative with multiple alternative endings, depending on what you choose, at different stages. Did this incident really happened? Or is it hogwash? You decide.

Jaywalker Wondering on Dec.29

(9) MHS, Pai-via The Witch’s House

After Breakfast and the usual answer to the call of nature, we took 107 until the intersection about 50km south. Then west on 1095. We made a stop at a very peculiar place called The Witch’s House. It is a café decorated like ‘The Burrow’ in Harry Potter’s movies. Both are stand-alone structures, in a secluded area.

There are colourful wizards and dark dementors. Dragon toad, spiders, leprechaun, globin, wingeg-horse, elfs, lurking among the plants and foliage that surrounded the café. The result is a surreal and playful setting. Nice & colourful. And the coffee is great, too.

Our next POI is the Bamboo Bridge, about 50km NW of where we are. Didn’t take very long to get there. We have entered Mae Hong Son. Kho Ku So Bamboo Bridge is connected to the base of the nearby mountains about 100m away. A monastery is located in this mountain and the bridge is to facilitate the monks’ movements, who would otherwise have to wade through muddy fields. As the name implies it is entirely made of bamboo and other organic material. Some of the earlier dwellings around here, however, was built with bricks & mortar. Cool place to wander around. The bridge will not withstand jumping (or riding), as it was built for barefooted monks.

And onward to Pai. We are at the start of our loop around Maehonson, The Mecca of Asian Bikers. This time, we will ride the loop counter-clockwise. My previous approach was from the south. Now, we are approaching from the east, and riding north before looping south towards Mae Sot. While making our way to Pai, I was amazed at the changes to the road. The asphalt look fresh and clean and the road is widen. It isn’t claustrophobic like it was before, when the foliage came right up against the road edges. The corners are nowhere as terrifying, because with the widening, you can see your apex and exit much sooner. And this give us a chance to use the higher gears, therefore faster straights, faster corners. Wonderful!

Pai is a nice town. It is a little bit like HDY, but just a little bit, because of availability of amenities here. It is a little touristy, just a little. Think most visitors here are the value-for-money kind. Don’t see much soliciting on the street. Hopefully, it remains like this forever and ever. We head to the Walking Street after checking-in. The Walking Street is the ‘go to’ place for anywhere we are unfamiliar with. Any hotel reception will direct you. Sure to find food and beer.

Lately, Cookie Monster was not feeling his best because he accidentally consumed cookies made in space. So did Insane Rider, although he wasn’t affected as badly. After food and some beer, I, too, started feeling woozy. Maybe it’s the smoke from the burning grass or something we inhaled. As we walked, I step behind KM7, with a hand on his shoulder to steady myself. And bloody Bongee Wongee was also dizzeee. And he placed a hand on my shoulder, and fell in-step behind me. Can you imagine how we might look? ‘3 Blind Mice’ staggering along Pai’s Walking Street. A midget in between two ogres. If anyone took a short clip and post in Tok Tok, he would surely garner a million ‘likes’. Fucking comical.

Only Orh Cheow and Lady P. Lien were unaffected. They found their dinner elsewhere and even got their laundry done at the laundromat. And they help with ours too. Thanks to them. Much appreciated.

Anyway, we made it back to the hotel. Tomorrow is another day.

woozywalker Jan. 2023