THE EVE
The year is 2023. I have been wanting to partake in this festival for ages. Having seen photos & videos of this spectacular event and I was determined to come see for myself. Krathong is a circular floating vessel with a small candle atop, hand-made from banana leaves or other organic stuff, typically palm-size or a little larger. It has its origin in Sukhothai, the ancient Thai capital or so I was told. It’s a no-brainer that If I want to see the festival, Sukhothai would be the place to be. A year or two ago, I mooted the idea of visiting this festival and found that hotel rates during Loy Krathong more then doubled. Still, a rough plan was made and has now come to fruition.
WHY DOES IT ALWAYS HAPPEN TO ME?
In 2022, while riding along the AYE (in SG) towards Tuas Checkpoint on a similar trip, the pouch which was strapped to the handlebar flew off the bike. It contained my passport and cell phone. I had to make a U-turn further down to come back to retrieved them. And luckily, everything was intact as there was little traffic on the expressway at 1am.
This year, I go one better. As usual at SG’s ICQ automatic clearance, I slotted in my passport, proceeded when the 1st barrier open and placed both thumbs on the scanner at the next station. Nothing happened. I was trying to figure what’s wrong when a policeman appeared. He asked for my passport which I duly handed over and manually open the 2nd barrier for me to passed. He pointed to the office block ahead and told me to report there. No problem. Computer glitches happen all the time. I proceeded, went passed the block, rounded the corner and parked in a lot. In the meantime, the policeman was blowing his whistle which I couldn’t hear as I rounded the building and disappeared from his sight. Unbeknownst to me, he also triggered the ALARM BUTTON. I parked, and sauntered towards the office while he hastily came toward me. “Why you didn’t park here?” he queried. Obviously, I missed the 3 little parking lots right in front of the office door. As he led me into the office, I heard a click as he locked the door after him. And as I stood there, 12 police uniforms appeared and surrounded me. They were helmeted, with bullet-proof vests, gas masks hanging from the waists and semi-auto rifles at ‘Port Arms’. And I was alone. My jaw hit the floor. What have I done now? The questioning began. Why didn’t I stop at the front of the office? Who are you travelling with? Who are you meeting? Where? What are you carrying in your bike? And so on and so on. By this time, I understood the situation and was seeing the funny side of it. I cheekily asked for a selfie with them and was of course denied. I secretly took it anyway plus a few second vid clip. All the time, the lady at the computer was busy retrieving my data, no doubt, and the man in charge, a young man in civvies was viewing footage from the CCTV, for sure, while on the phone with his HQ, giving an assessment of the situation. I was the centre of attention and I asked to go to the toilet. Didn’t really need to but do it just for fun. I was accompanied. And finally, after about an hour, they let me off. But not after deleting the photos and vid I took and a quick look into the panniers and luggage on my bike. So, there you go. An apt beginning of another episode in my life of misadventures.
A few days laterrrrr…
Ayutthaya. To meet up with Mr. Human GPS, Crack, and KCK (KanChiongKuai, or the overly animated and ever enthusiastic). I slotted in behind their three parked CB500s. Mr. GPS met me at the lobby of the Grand Phranakhon and we went for a bite and an update on the plan for the following days.
From Ayutthaya, the four of us rode up to Petchabun. Indie K (not a pop group), who also rides a CB500 will joins us at Petchabun. Indie K, so-called because he ‘flees’ to Thailand from SG every so often, collect his bike from where it was last stored, and ride solo around N. Thailand, independently. No particular destinations or routes to adhere to. He speaks quite a fair bit of Thai. This time, he will join us on Nov.25 to ride together. That makes 5 of us.
In the evening at Petchabun, we made a trip to Khao Kho in the mountains to visit Wat Prathat Phasornkaew. It’s about 1,000m above MSL. As dusk fell, we made our down the mountains into town to have a look see at the BMW Motorrad Event. A thing that I notice at this event is that the bikers left their helmets on their bikes, unsecured. Shows the trust among the bikers here. And in many parts of Thailand too.
26 Nov. ’23 – Right. We are heading to Sukhothai to meet up with our Brazilian Bro, The Flying Chicken. But chicken he surely ain’t. He once iron-butted from SG to Phuket solo. And that wasn’t not the only instance. This time, he rode from Chiang Mai, about 300km from Sukhotai on his new Rally 300 CRF. FC has settled in Thailand with his lovely wife and his playful dog. They live in a huge bungalow not too far from Thapae Gate. Even got a room for his Rally300. He has divested himself of his Triple Black, Duc and a Harley, I think, in SG. Last we met was a year ago at Mae Salong. Really look forward to seeing him again.
On the way back to the hotel, we stopped at a small village celebrating Loy Krathong with a beauty pageant surrounded by a night bazaar. It wasn’t a huge crowd but those present were enjoying the festivities. Simple, yet joyous.
https://youtube.com/shorts/sfzZeibUqMI Ms. Loy Krathong 2023
We arrived at the hotel at Sukhotai around lunch at about the same time with FC. The six of us had lunch at Na Kothai, a restaurant not far from the hotel. Food was great and put us all in a cheerful mood as we catch-up with each other. Loy Krathong is here and we are at its birthplace. We are all excited. I am on the verge of realising my dream of many years.
As dusk near, traffic along the street where our hotel stood started to build up. The street led directly to Sukhotai Historical Park, where the main celebration was to be held. Its only about 2.5km from where we were. We made our way there in a couple of tuk tuk. Admission to the park was free for the day but you have to get a ticket if you want to watch the live performance depicting some historical battle amid the ruins of ancient wat and stupas. The performers were in period costumes and there was a herd of elephants as well. And of course, there will be flashes & fireworks, thunder & smoke. At the main gate, a cacophony of noises invaded our ears, composing of engines and horns, police whistles, human noises, traditional Thai music, fireworks ,and several versions of the famous “Loy Krathong” song from blaring speakers from the stalls. There were perhaps a hundred or more stalls set up within the park, selling food and drinks, krathong, souveniours, fashion, tees, and everything else. Its more then I can describe. The stalls were positioned around squarish ponds of water, which were constructed during ancient times. LEDs of every hue & colour from the stalls and those strategically placed by the Park illuminated the entire area of about 300 x 300m square. I am just guessing. It is very possibly larger. However, the actual size of the entire park is over 70sq.km. and is a UNESCO Heritage Site. We are just on a part of it, albeit a popular and easily accessible part. It is so amazing that the authority allows people to move about so freely among these historical monuments. Beautiful and big hybrid lanterns on display have electrified moving parts and figurines and oil and candles to top it off. Pretty Krathong floated gently in the ponds, pushed by the breeze, carrying away what vexations that one may have. And in the midst of all that, I needed to pee. Couldn’t find a toilet for the longest time. Found one just in time before I peed myself.
The night ended with some food and beer at a small restaurant outside, near the main gate. The street is less busy now and a short tuk tuk ride got us back to our hotel.
Tomorrow is the Big Day.
jaywalker, at Sukhotai on 26 Nov. ’23
2 wheels and an engine 